The Offering Cave: A Day Trip to the Underworld in Western Belize

Meet the Cave Tour in Belize that makes the ATM Cave Tour look like a walk in the park

“Ok Stephanie now I want you to climb up there and stand for a picture,” instructs our guide, Antonio.

It’s only been several minutes since John, Antonio and I descended into the gradual deep darkness of the Offering Cave, nestled within Elijio Panti National Park in the Maya mountains of Belize, accessible only on horseback or on foot, and once used by the ancient Maya for offerings.

We are the only three people in the cave. And this difference is only one of many in stark contrast to the more popular and accessible ATM Cave, famous for the fully intact crystallized human skeleton nestled within a tight cave chamber that serves as the ultimate reward for the hours of driving, hiking, and at times scary cave spelunking required to get there.

On this gorgeous day in March, we’ve abandoned the sunshine and jungle shade and are instead clambering around in The Offering Cave to gaze in amazement at artifacts left behind by the Maya of Belize.

We’ve just spent two hours on horseback on rugged trails through the foothills of the mountains to get here from San Antonio–a 45-minute drive from San Ignacio–and have placed full trust in our guide Antonio. He’s a jovial 59-year old man with an infectious smile and clear passion for sharing this cave and off-the-beaten-path Belize with adventurous travelers. He’s also an expert in photo ops, and has worked with countless archaeologists throughout the open caves of Belize. He also leads groups of students through the mountains, teaching survival and natural skills.

I should disclose now that I am the furthest thing from an adventurous traveler, preferring peaceful hikes and tranquil snorkeling to skydiving and cave spelunking. I had a nervous tummy the entire way to San Antonio. (I don’t do well with the unknown, even after a few years of challenging my fears.)

Yet there is something about Belize that unleashes a new side of me, daring me to rethink what I am capable of and challenging my comfort zone, coming out victorious on the other side, adrenaline leaving my body as I think in disbelief, “did I really just do that?” Yes, I am nervous and occasionally afraid. But I am also a little more wild, a little less guarded, and in the habit of saying yes first and thinking later. Each visit to Belize introduces me to a new side of myself.

So thus, here I am in the depths of a cave I am told not many travelers see, about to climb into a small section of the cave for the first photo-op of the afternoon.

I nervously climb, doubting myself yet pushing on anyway (because Antonio is a friendly yet no-nonsense man who knows I can do this and wants me to know it, too), reaching the top with wobbling legs, and yes, getting a pretty awesome photo.

Speaking of photos…due to prior incidents with damaged pottery and skeletons from visitors dropping cameras, photography is no longer allowed in the ATM Cave. Neither is handling of any artifacts, and many sections are somewhat roped off to prevent further damage. It’s common to see other tour groups and pass clusters of other wide-eyed travelers in awe of the history and significance inside the cave. Two prior experiences in the ATM cave have no doubt prepared me for this moment now in the Offering Cave, alone in its depths with John and Antonio.

But this time I am in photo heaven with free reign to photograph everything. At some points, we delicately handle some of the artifacts.

We climb into chambers full of gigantic, fully intact Mayan pottery.

We watch our step around piles of bones and teeth.

The stories of the distant past and this ancient civilization (once some 1 million in Belize) dance beside us in the dark. Dust beneath our feet and stalactites above our heads lead us to pots and bones in the ground, inviting questions and stories. A memory of those that once were.

Continuing on, we have no choice but to hold onto a knotted rope and rappel up and down sections of the cave to reach the next chamber. I am silently terrified and simultaneously amazed at my body’s capabilities.

We go slowly, Antonio encouraging us along with a cheerful “muy bien” after we’ve completed something momentarily challenging or scary.

Of course, he disclosed that he has been in here alone with a dying headlamp and found his way out, and can now navigate in 15 minutes what it takes us 2 hours to complete.

After some time, I begin to ignore the bats and terrifying cave spiders, creeping around in the dark with long antennae used for feeling their way around. (I’ll give you a second to google Belize cave spiders.) Gradually, I focus my thoughts on the sheer wonder of being in this space.

We turn off our headlamps and remain silent for a minute, fully present in the palpable, inky darkness and keenly aware of the distant and mysterious murmurings of the cave.

The language of the cave is spoken in the steady drips of stalactites and the flutter of bats’ tiny wings. Stories translated through pots and bones. The roaring silence of utter stillness. A musical symphony awoken by rapping our knuckles on the curtains of hollow cave formations, wind chimes of the natural world.

We continue on to admire a piece of a pot with the writing and drawings still visible.

We squeeze through the curtain chamber and contort our bodies to fit through several small passages. (This is not a tour for the claustrophobic.)

And then, several hours passed by in minutes…light. We emerge to the familiar canopy of jungle trees with a new understanding of ourselves and a greater appreciation for those who came before. After three times in Belize, I’ve fallen hard for this country and its people yet again.

After another hour or so on horseback, we stop at an overwhelmingly beautiful waterfall and swim in its pools. It is effortless to fathom the happiness of the Belizean people and their appreciation for nature here. And we are grateful to Antonio for sharing this beauty with us and inviting us in with open arms, much like every other Belizean we’ve met (in the tourism industry or not) on prior trips.

As the sun begins to set behind the mountains, it is time to begin the journey back. We don’t see another soul the entire way, as darkness begins to fall in the jungle and I’m reminded of Antionio’s story of a prior jaguar sighting in this area. We make small talk but are mostly quiet on the way back, no doubt contemplating and reflecting on the day and the sheer magic of it all. A fingernail moon appears overhead, and the sight takes my breath away.

To me, this day perfectly encapsulates why I love Belize. Adventures lie around every corner, where locals are willing to share their passion and pride for their country and all there is to discover within, yet each experience also invites the traveler to go deeper and learn more about herself.

If you are willing and ready, Belize will teach you, challenge you, excite you, and invigorate you. And if you’re lucky, you’ll find yourself emerging a bit stronger, and a little more badass, with someone special by your side.

Some pertinent info:

There is no way this tour would have been possible for us without Claudia and Franklin at Vanilla Hills Lodge. I found this lodge in Bullet Tree Falls in 2015 before my first trip and have now returned two times. Claudia and Franklin continuously go above and beyond for their guests and find/arrange tours like this one. I can’t recommend their lodge enough. It gets better every time we visit. Claudia mentioned that this tour would be great for us and she spent days tracking down contact info to make it happen.

The cost for this tour was $130 US/person (I honestly would have paid triple this amount, it’s an incredible tour!!) when arranged through Vanilla Hills with transportation to Antonio’s and a lunch from a local restaurant in town.

I would not recommend this tour if:

• You are claustrophobic or afraid of small spaces.
• You don’t have at least some prior experience on a horse.
• You are afraid of bugs (we had to pick some ticks off of each other) or the slight possibility of encountering jungle wildlife.
• You are not cool with peeing in the jungle.
• You are not in relatively good physical health. The tour is pretty physical, there is a decent amount of walking, and at times you’ll be hiking and climbing up steep areas.

Thank you to Wilburt for driving us out, Ko Ox Han Ah for chicken sandwiches that held up amazingly well in our backpacks, Antonio for the BEST experience of our entire vacation and for sharing this part of Belize and his heart with us, and Claudia and Franklin for helping us to experience this unforgettable tour.